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Flaring Guards

Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:33 am
by shweatypox
Is there a difference between flaring and rolling? I'm guessing rolling just pushes the guard inward and up while flaring bulges the guard out or are they exactly the same thing :? Whats the best way of getting the guards done to fit wheels with a lower offset?

Re: Flaring Guards

Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:12 pm
by FLAWLES
unsure on the jzx110 , but the x100 on the rear guards you can easily pull them out with a guard roller ( and a bit of patients ) about 5 to 10mm, takes abit of time but its do able
i pulled the rears of my x100 out about 5mm or so to fit 18 x 10 + 25, nothing flash but it worked

rolling helps with tyre rub, stops them from peeling/ripping side walls, if done wrong tho can lead to cracking paint on the lip of the guard/fender

lots of ways you can flare a guard tho, buy welding a edge on or fibire glassing a lip on etc

Re: Flaring Guards

Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:25 pm
by Mike
usually a roll, means to flare the factory edge in. i prefer a hammer. Flares are usually needed when going to a much lower offset. get your offset right and you wont have to flare the gaurds, usually looks crude.

Re: Flaring Guards

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:32 am
by PowderJZX
Guard roll - i think its rolling the inner bit.. flaring - extending the arch outwards :P i think

Re: Flaring Guards

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:43 pm
by the fallen
guard rolling = using a roller machine, pipe/baseball bat, hammer to push the guard just above the lip out a few mm (like flawless said, 5-10mm) to just take the edge of the guard catching on the tyre.

guard flaring = attaching by either screws, fibreglassing, poprivets, etc, a flare to the cars guard to make the body wider to take a lower offset wheel than what can be achieved from rolling. usually doing this can give clearance from 30-100mm, depending on flare/widebody design. can either use just universal bolton flares, which just run round above the factory lip, or can use a complete bolt on widebody guard, which spaces the entire guard out from the side of the car. if going to this extreme, usually the original inner and outer skin are cut out of the way, so that the wheel doesn't rub on the factory bodywork, but still appears "flush" to the widebody kit.

man i can rant...

Re: Flaring Guards

Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:05 pm
by Looonie
Err...

Guard rolling (also known as "lipping the guards) is where the lip of the guard (which is shaped like an "L") is pushed up flat against the inside of the vertical guard metal. This provides extra clearance for the tyre to tuck inside the guard and prevents the metal catching on the tyre during suspension travel. Usually done with either a guard roller or hammer (rubber mallet and heat gun is my personal favourite)

Guard flaring is where the original metal line of the factory guard as viewed from the exterior, is manipulated in some way to bring it further outside of the original lines of the body, thereby providing additional clearance for low offset wheels and/or wide tyres. Can be done in a number of ways:
  • Leveraging the guard metal out (crow bar/jack handle etc etc) to stretch the metal (can result in "dimpling" the metal just above the guard, commonly seen on S13 Silvias)
  • Using a guard roller to push the guard metal out
  • Going nutso with a hammer (and often dolly) to stretch and "beat" the metal further out
  • Cutting vertical lines in the guard metal and bending the strips outwards, then welding in new metal, bogging or fibreglassing to provide a new guard contour
  • Welding in another guard (different model, or often front onto rear) to provide the guard flare you are after
  • Or finally... chopping the guard up completely and covering it with bolt on flares or widebody.

Re: Flaring Guards

Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 7:30 pm
by Tofu
That's right ^^

FYI, if you are rolling your own guards on your car I would suggest watching the below video. The rears on mine were done by Grant @ GT Refinishers and he used a pole then then undersealed any cracked paint. Guard rollers can stretch away from the fuel flap and doors if you haven't done it before etc as they are set at a static angle when you roll whereas with a pole you can quickly change the angle of flare easier for the edges and centre etc. The rear guards I believe are dual skin so the metal is quite hard so you have be be tough with them. I did the fronts on my own with a hammer and cut the inner guard with a razor blade and it came out mint as the front guards are soft.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDTK9IjKIYU