to hi flow your turbo or not to?

[FLAWLES]

thought i would throw this question up here to see who thinks its a good idea to hi-flow and steel wheel the CT15B, CT12 and CT20

im currently running a ct15b hi-flow, built by steve murch using the Rasty and HPI spec sheets ( basicly the same as the TRD up grade ), made out of two other toyota turbos along with a HKS 1Bar actuator

thoughts on the hi-flow, i enjoy the thought of not having a ceramic impeller flying apart on me at anything over 1bar, and the response is awsome at both low boost and at 18psi ( possibly over havnt taken it over this ), i also enjoy the whole fact of it all being factory in a sense of words
i also find it well suited to street dutys and track work

i cant comment on a bigger turbo, but im sure others

what are other peoples thoughts?

[shweatypox]

How much that set you back?

[FLAWLES]

How much that set you back?

varys as to what you want done,

anything from around $800 + gst to over $1500 + gst

hence why i wanted to start a discussion as to what peoples thoughts are
price vs bang for buck etc

[Mike]

I've just put on a garrett gt3076r on non vvti 1j, response seems spectacular. And awesome to get rid of the junky looking factory stuff too.
Unfortunately shit cost a fortune, new clutch, bling oil lines, stainless dump pipes, good quality wastegates bla bla.

Id say first mod for anyone would be a manual conversion for sure.

[ryanfels]

Id say first mod for anyone would be a manual conversion for sure.

Hahaha Jarrod, you cant hide from the truth, no matter what forum your on

[crux]

I have pondered this turbo setup. Never got around to doing it as I had to buy a spare turbo first to send off and be repaired...
Realistically what is the spool like compared to factory? I don't really want to lose the response especially having a few big turbo laggy things prior to this.
Later on in the year I was hoping to just buy the HKS GT2835 Pro S kit. Very expensive I know but its very proven.

[SimonMkII]

I have gone from a big turbo (apparently a t70 or t76) which pretty much had no boost until you got it over 4k rpm, to a Murch modified standard turbo (steel wheel etc). Unfortunately I can't compare it to a standard car as I've never driven one, but the difference is massive. The Murch one starts spooling not far off idle and is on full boost waaaay before the old one. Cost me around $1250, I just supplied my factory turbo and Murch was fortunately able to find the bits he needed.

[Alex]

I'm Running a Garrett t04z, .82 exhaust with a sinco special steampipe mani
He put heaps of effort into the merge and w/g feeds, made a huge difference compared
to old manifold, which was not too bad, but pretty average. just the different manifold made it
hit boost 1200-1500 rpm quicker.

overall im pretty impressed with the response for the size of the turbo..
i was after overtaking power + fuel economy off boost, and definitely have that.

[FLAWLES]

Id say first mod for anyone would be a manual conversion for sure.

Hahaha Jarrod, you cant hide from the truth, no matter what forum your on

oh har har

I have pondered this turbo setup. Never got around to doing it as I had to buy a spare turbo first to send off and be repaired...
Realistically what is the spool like compared to factory? I don't really want to lose the response especially having a few big turbo laggy things prior to this.
Later on in the year I was hoping to just buy the HKS GT2835 Pro S kit. Very expensive I know but its very proven.

hks gt2835 kit is nice, what about the 3037? tho

but has for my set up it hits boost rather early, havnt really lost alot of response down low, but gained a crap load in the mid range and high end
was a fast improvement over the stock ct15b, and imo is ideal for track use, when your on and off the gass all the time....wouldnt really recommend it if your wanting to drift ( maybe )

[Mike]

the 3076 is pretty much ideal for the 1j, spool is pretty awesome and bugger all lag.
Def the best choice for up to 400ps