to hi flow your turbo or not to?

[FLAWLES]

the 3076 is pretty much ideal for the 1j, spool is pretty awesome and bugger all lag.
Def the best choice for up to 400ps

how big is the 3076?

im wondering if im getting the 3037 and 3076 mixed up

[ArmouredNZ]

The Garrett GT3076 and the HKS 3037 are essentially the same turbo. Just a few spec changed by HKS, and they made it a bolt on turbo aswell.

[EVLC36]

Well number one turbo on my 2JZ has the bearing whine of death so need to pull them, am definitely not going big single, but am definitely thinking about steel wheeling both of them for peace of mind.

How hard is it to remove the standard twin 2J setup? Looks like a real prick.

[Jayzedex100]

Hey Jarrod, how much power does your car make with that turbo now? Did Murch say how much it could handle?

I want a nice little bolt-on turbo, but those top brand Jap ones are ridiculously priced (at least in our money/current exchange rate). I'd go high-flow over Rasty/HPI/HKS/Trust bolt-on jobs, just because of the price factor.

If it cost $1500 for a high-flow, and it could handle around, lets say 380hp, I'd consider that very worth it, considering you won't get anything cheaper if you go Japan style, which are all over 2.5k

[FLAWLES]

Hey Jarrod, how much power does your car make with that turbo now? Did Murch say how much it could handle?

I want a nice little bolt-on turbo, but those top brand Jap ones are ridiculously priced (at least in our money/current exchange rate). I'd go high-flow over Rasty/HPI/HKS/Trust bolt-on jobs, just because of the price factor.

If it cost $1500 for a high-flow, and it could handle around, lets say 380hp, I'd consider that very worth it, considering you won't get anything cheaper if you go Japan style, which are all over 2.5k

to be honest adam i have never had a true power run, few reason for this is there are elec gremlins somewhere in the car and i have zero timming and the trans is slipping ( man need money for r154 asap )

but with the little power runs i have had i made the same power with the new turbo on way less boost
i.e
185rwkw @ 18psi old ceramic wheel oem spec ct15b
185rwkw @ 8psi new hi flow steal wheel murch spec ct15b

and you could happily feed 20+psi down its throat

now if i remember correctly the turbo murch bulit up for me stated it was good for around 500hp @ 54 pounds per minute and is now 750 cfm or there abouts when it was done on his flow bench ( i will dig out the inv )

i cant really say what it cost me ha ( he is a family freind ) but if you supplied your own ct15b and ct26 core ( same as hilux turbo core ) it would be a hell of alot cheaper than 1500nzd, but i can safely say it was the first ct15b he had played with

teh spec i used was the links you posted from rasty/hpi on the jzx100.com forum a few yrs back and i basicly said make me something better than those, keeping in mind i do alot of circuit driving and want low to mid range power, not so top heavy in the power range.......even tho i got the high rpm power range tho haha

i reckon this high flow and a sinco dump pipe it would be the best bang for buck set up around

[Jayzedex100]

Cool. It would be good to know exactly what he did with it. I'm curious to know what was done with the actuator side of things.

Where can a CT26 core be sought?

[shweatypox]

I think I had a ct26 on my gt4 (3sgte), did they also come on the 7mgte's? Or are the better ones off the diesel hilux?

[PSIBRG]

What I noticed with Murch is you've gotta tell him EXACTLY what you want out of your turbo. I have a Murch turbo on my Mirage, I basically said "I want something that kicks ass over the standard turbo, without raising the boost threshold too much" (boost threshold being the rpm/point that the turbo starts spooling). What i've ended up with is something that starts spooling at about 2800rpm, but spools slower than factory. What I didn't expect though, is that the turbo's efficiency range has shifted WAY up, opposite of what FLAWLES was saying above. The car was faster before on 8psi than it is now on 12psi. Below 10psi you don't really feel anything. This isn't really what I wanted at all... however when you actually do hit the efficiency range (right about 18psi), the pull is so insane that you feel your eyeballs sinking into their sockets as it squeezes a little poo out of your ass . On 24psi it is on par with my mates old 330kw atw setup in his VR-4. This kinda made up for it's low boost shortcomings... but I would've rather had something a bit more responsive.

Turbo was a standard Evo 16G, Murch did a backcut exhaust wheel in the factory 7cm housing, GM Grand National compressor wheel in a 4" MSE antisurge compressor cover. I'm considering switching to a TD06SL2 exhaust wheel in a Greddy 8cm T3 exhaust housing, Steve reckons that will give it more punch across the board but will raise the boost threshold around 300rpm.

I recommend shopping around before completely committing yourself to a custom/Murch turbo. You don't have to go Japanese for quality. Ever heard of Holset turbos? Search Holset HX40 on youtube. My mate just picked up one for his RB26, he paid $650 for it. Came off a bus that blew a piston and had done fuck all km. Was under warranty so they replaced everything incl the turbo, which was near new and in perfect condition. Twin scroll T3 so should have full boost well before 4000rpm, and will easily make 400kw on the right setup.

Example of response on an RB26, shouldn't be too different to a 1JZ I would think?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vuxBVdW6E

[FLAWLES]

I think I had a ct26 on my gt4 (3sgte), did they also come on the 7mgte's? Or are the better ones off the diesel hilux?

yuk 7mgte lol

unsure on if the hilux/surf ones are better i would have just thought they where more avaliable being that they are everywhere

Cool. It would be good to know exactly what he did with it. I'm curious to know what was done with the actuator side of things.

Where can a CT26 core be sought?

the actuator was left standard, but the port size was increased, one of the best things you can do to a std oem spec ct15b is jam on the HKS 1 bar actuator, and set it correctly...even if you high flow it you still will need a good exhaust and actuator set up, other wise it all pointless

[FLAWLES]

stuff

fully agree, you have to go into this with a resonible amount of knowledge ( at the time i did not know zip about this type of thing, but yarned to steve for a very very long time and learnt alot ) and an understanding as to what you want to do with the turbo and what you are trying to achevie as there are alot of options out there, some not so good some very very very good

the reasoning going with the ct26 core ( hpi and rasty even trd do this for there ct15b hi-flows ) is the fact the shaft size is bigger 22mm vs 20mm for the oem spec ct15b which to the best of my inderstanding alows more of a wide selection of compressor wheels, both intake and exhaust

ct15b may be one of the bigest petrol turbos toyota does on its cars but it lacks alot imo
hence the trd versons and the rasty/hpi options