XQUSIS: Tristan's Mark II JZX110 IR-V

[WATDA]

Oh really? i know DKM but havent looked at there work. For the tunnel just make up a template from some cardboard then get it made up in sheet metal. I had a Rasty fibreglass tunnel but it didnt fit right, worked out better with the sheetmetal one as i sound proofed it up alot more as its flippen loud otherwise!

[PSIBRG]

I used redline MT90..

the noise is only on lower RPMs but dissappears after around 2.5k ish rpm and only when its under load. yeah it kinda sounds like the the one in the vid during the middle part where he stepped on the gas and it started rattling.

Yet to bolt the shift boot thing. I will need to bring it to a fabricator.

Sweet, MT90 is the goods.

That noise sounds normal to me. It's just the centre plate (metal) rattling in between the two friction plates. Usually they do this just when you've got the pedal depressed but alot of clutches will do it while driving at low rpm too. The advantage of a twin plate is you basically double the friction plate area, meaning that with any given pedal pressure (clamping force), the clutch will hold twice the torque of a single plate clutch given the same force. Disadvantage is obviously the noise. If it bothers you that much you could always move down to a single plate clutch, just know that if you want it to be spec'd to hold similar power to your twin plate it'll be alot heavier and harder to drive in comparison.

BUT, hold off until you have your tunnel sorted. Everything is loud as hell with a gaping hole right there You'll find, with a proper tunnel welded in, shift boot fitted up and all your interior panels back together, your twin plate will be a LOT more bearable. You said you got your conversion stuff from Jap Spares right? When I picked up my stuff from them I asked if they still had their JZX90 halfcut sitting around. They did, so I asked if they'd cut the tunnel section out for me. They threw it in for free....

[murdoko]

it turned out to be the gbox hitting the tunnel... just needed to cut a bit more metal off that's all. However, in the process of getting to a definite conclusion, Japspares helped me out BIG TIME. I left it there for a bit more than a week. They test drove it, disassembled the whole thing, reassembled it, drove it, got the driveshaft lengthened, tested it, removed the gearbox, disassembled the gearbox to inspect the internals, assembled it again and drove it, replaced x110 R154 with a x100 R154, cut more metal to clear tunnel (solved the noise), drove it and let me decided which parts I wanna keep (if I want to keep the twin plate or the stock clutch and flywheel etc.) thrown in a manual tunnel.

Believe it or not, they did it ALL FOR FREE. top blokes at Jap Spares!

in addition to what they've found, they found out that the top bell housing bolts are hand tight, two clutch cover bolts worn, fixed them all, for free.

the noise is still there but it's 1000 times quieter yet I havent sorted the tunnel yet..

Pretty happy with the outcome! although I must say, Auto feels faster sumo total.

THink i need to upgrade my ECU as it sorta cuts off at around 5k RPM. ENgine check light is on too.

[WATDA]

Sounds like its in limp mode? Japspares sound like good guys! It should be a shoot load faster just by converting to manual. Might be a good idea to get it scanned or switch up that ecu

[PSIBRG]

Does sound like it's in limp mode..... tried resetting the ecu?
Japspares are a bunch of good bastards!

[murdoko]

Maybe I used the wrong phrase.. it doesn't "cutoff" lol

Engine check light is on and there seems to be some LAG or should I say a dip in power around 5k RPM then once it's passed that, it's sweet. It's intermittent as well. Could it be because I'm using an Auto ECU and speed sensor from the gearbox is not attached?

I've read a few threads about this, some auto ECUs work like a breeze, some don't.. hmmm it's no biggie... not yet

Aftermarket ECU is lined up though I don't know when. might install alongside a Tomei M8280 to keep it looking like factory. Around 5-6k supplied, installed, and tuned

Gave it a good run last night and it gave me goosebumps at first! definitely feels a lot more powerful when you step on it! so easy to slide even with sticky tyres on. My LSD feels a bit notchy though... hmmm if I chuck a clutch type LSD, it's gonna eat up my rears real fast haha!

[whg-jzx90]

wow this car is nice man

[murdoko]

wow this car is nice man

Cheers

[murdoko]

Fixed the manual tunnel hole yesterday. Instead of trying to install the manual tunnel, I got a bit lazy and creative.

I thought of a BETTER way to insulate heat and sound. Bought a thick and hard rubber foam where the shift boot thingy can be mounted. Shaped it so that it covers the hole, flush fit on the shift boot thing and silicone sealant for maximum insulation. It looks legit too!

It went a lot quieter than expected!

In addition, it's lighter than factory..

Insulation is maximised as well! Will take photos when I have a chance.

[murdoko]

So a car and a half later, I managed to get a hold of an OS Giken Streetmaster Twin Metal Soft (GTS2CD) with push converter kit to replace my munted OSG TS2B (Unsprung). This is the newest clutch kit in the OS Giken range and is supposedly better than the STR range (for the streets).

I got AJ from pitstop Albany/Grey Lynn to do the job. A+++







First impression, this clutch kit is the SHIZ....

- pedal pressure feels stock yet it's a TWIN and still retaining the high clamping force.
- The clutch engages as soon as you depress the pedal.
- a lot quieter than my TS2B and AJs single plate when clutch pedal is fully pressed
- driveability of my car went up by 1000% haha coz the TS2B is not designed for the streets.


was it worth it? Now, YES. will see in the long run.