My rambling thoughts on your rambling questions.
With an auto 1jz turbo you will get approx 14l/100km around town and 9-10l/100km on the open road. I saw those numbers with a modified JZZ30 and now with a bog standard JZX110. I'm expecting the 110 to ease up on the drink a little once the exhaust is opened up as there is a catalytic converter and 3 mufflers in there. You will want to run 98 as they ping on 95, even at stock boost due to high static compression and aggressive timing - at todays fuel prices it will cost you about 35c per km around town.
TT vs VVTi 1JZ
The twin turbo motors are all at least 15 years old now. While the long block is very tough and likely to survive for 100s of 1000s of kms the turbos won't last forever (a point you raised too). When I sold my T/T it had done 160kms according to the odometer (I put 40kms on it with oil & filter every 5k) and the turbos were still in good nick, although when I fitted dump pipes there was evidence someone had been there before. If you end up rebuilding twins it will cost a metric crap load, excluding getting them in and out which is a bit of a pain if you DIY and expensive if you pay someone. A lot of people think "I'll just put a single on it, I can get a manifold for 300, wastegate for 200 and turbo for 400 all brand new off trademe, that's less than a grand sucker"...Hmm...to do it properly I'd budget at least 3k, closer to 5k with custom manifold, new GT30xx BB turbo etc.
Other things like valve seals will be starting to wear out (more so if the oil hasn't been changed every 5,000km like it should be), not a reason to slash your wrists but another pain to sort out, or just put up with random smokey moments.
The vvti turbo has bags of torque down low but I find the power curve kinda boring. This may be more of a JZX110 thing as they are all fly by wire (ects-i) - you suggest to the car how much throttle you would like and it decides what you get - to me it definitely does not feel like it's smoothing it out and not giving you all the throttle you want whenever you ask. If your car turns out like Andrew's though (making up to 100kw more than stock) you may not notice these issues...
LSD
Torsen diffs were fitted to all manual turbos (100s & 110s) but were an option on turbo autos. Axle code should end in D if it has a torsen, the full code would something like B01D. If you want to go drifting I would recommend a clutch type diff, my torsen seems to do what's it's designed to (transfer the torque to the wheel with most traction) which makes it a little inconsistent when trying to provoke the rear end. It will do it but I think a TRD or Cusco etc will be more predictable when initiating the drift. They can be found easily enough but seem to carry a huge premium over factory LSDs on yahoo Japan.